EDITOR'S PICK

• Deep Experiences & Summer Fun in Aomori

  Aomori is the northernmost of Tohoku’s six prefectures, and an awesome place to take a deep dive into the unique experiences the region has to offer! Whether you want to get in touch with local culture, get lost in the crowds of some of the country’s most energetic and iconic festivals, or get off the beaten path, Aomori has you covered.

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  Nicholas Rich

  Nick is the editorial director for the Japanese culture site, All About Japan. He became a lifelong fan of Tohoku after a too-brief stay in Fukushima Prefecture, but is always on the lookout for opportunities to return to the region and keep exploring!

  Nicholas Rich

  Deep Experiences & Summer Fun in Aomori

  Summer is one of the best times to visit Japan—especially the country’s unique and wild northern region, Tohoku! The area is chock-full of regional festivals with deep cultural roots, where the atmosphere is as hot as the weather, local areas are as cool as the coastal breezes, and the mountains and countryside are covered in picture-perfect greenery.

  Aomori is the northernmost of Tohoku’s six prefectures, and an awesome place to take a deep dive into the unique experiences the region has to offer! Whether you want to get in touch with local culture, get lost in the crowds of some of the country’s most energetic and iconic festivals, or get off the beaten path, Aomori has you covered. The best part? Despite its location at the tip of Japan’s main island, it’s just a few hours from Tokyo by bullet train, which means getting there is a breeze!

  Our first stop is the small city of Hachinohe. Since it’s not necessarily on the radar of many international visitors, it’s representative of the awesome destinations throughout Tohoku that are hidden in plain sight. Hachinohe is a great place to start when exploring Aomori Prefecture as a whole; not only is it a stop on the Tohoku Shinkansen bullet train network, but there’s a ton to see and do, especially in summer.

  The biggest event of the summer is Hachinohe’s Sansha Taisai Festival. The festival spans a five-day period from July 31 to August 4 (during which there are a variety of public events to enjoy), and boasts a history of nearly 300 years! In fact, it was declared a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property. Sansha Taisai sees the city come alive with all the trappings of Japanese festivals—residents and visitors dress in yukata and festival garb, stalls line the streets peddling local specialty foods and drinks—but what really sets it apart are the giant floats (sansha) paraded through the streets along with small, portable shrines called mikoshi.

  The sansha are made by groups of residents in their spare time over several months, and have a unique flavor each year. Perhaps most impressive is the fact that they can expand and contract as the road widens or narrows—combine that with the energetic pulse of the traditional music played by people riding the floats, and you’re in for an unforgettable experience. The festivities culminate with a nighttime illumination of the floats outside of city hall, and the blazing floats are simply stunning.

  Hachinohe is a port town that prides itself on the freshness, quality and quantity of the seafood it lands—particularly squid and a local variety of mackerel—so no trip is complete without checking out their local markets. It’s here that the city’s flavor really shines (literally). First, there’s the Mutsu Morning Market in the old heart of the city, where kind old ladies peddle seafood so fresh it’s practically still moving (at prices so low it seems like a mistake!).

  Combine some choice morsels like tuna, mackerel and squid with rice and soup for a simple, healthy and supremely satisfying breakfast! If you’re hungry for more, the nearby Hasshoku shopping center is an amazing collection of seafood, as well as locally sourced meats and produce, prepared regional dishes like senbei jiru (a hearty soup made with veggies and wheat-based crackers), local craft goods and souvenirs to bring back with you, and more!

  And that’s not even mentioning the Tatehana Wharf Morning Market! As the name would imply, this open-air market sees some 300 vendors set up shop at sunrise along the wharf and sell almost anything you could imagine.

  Yes, more incredible fresh ingredients, but also coffee and pastries, antiques, artisanal goods, and sometimes even cars! Some 10,000 visitors flock to this market every Sunday—with that many people, supplies go fast, so it pays to go early! Must tries include piping hot chicken wings, grilled squid, mackerel croquettes, and (of course) senbei jiru.

  If you’re looking to enjoy the local nightlife, be sure to stop by one of the city’s maze-like yokocho—these narrow alleyways are home to a variety of small, counter-only eateries that offer home-cooked dishes, local brews and sake. There’s no better way to brush up against the culture of the city than to be elbow to elbow with the residents as they eat, drink and make merry!

  For even more festival fun, bid bon voyage to Hachinohe and head to the city of Aomori for the electric Nebuta Festival! The prefectural capital is only about 40 minutes by train from Hachinohe, making it a natural next step for any itinerary. The Nebuta Festival is held every year from August 2 to August 7, and is famous throughout Japan as one of the “Three Great Festivals of Tohoku.” One look at the artistry and intricacy of the giant floats that are paraded through the streets at night in celebration is all it takes to see why. Like the Sansha Taisai in Hachinohe, local teams spend a year designing and constructing elaborate designs, themed after a variety of mythical cultural or historical figures, pop culture characters, and more!

  The floats are primarily pushed by hand, and accompanied by pounding taiko drums and other traditional instruments, as well as swarms of marchers and dancers. Viewing the parade is a treat, but what makes the Nebuta really special is that basically anyone can participate, as long as they wear the traditional regalia (which is often on sale during the festival). The best way to experience the true magic of this matsuri is to change your clothes and dive in!

  With so much excitement in the city, be sure to make some time to get away from it all and explore the prefecture’s vast and verdant countryside. Like everything else in Aomori, there’s plenty from which to choose, but one spot visitors simply should not miss is Lake Towada, along with the nearby Oirase Gorge!

  Part of the expansive Towada-Hachimantai National Park, Lake Towada is a gorgeous caldera lake that has been designated a Natural Monument, as well as a Special Place of Scenic Beauty. The area is brimming with lakeside footpaths and hiking routes, as well as camp sites for those looking to really soak up the great outdoors. One of the best ways to enjoy the incredible views offered by the lake is via sightseeing boat.

  Just a hop away is the Oirase Gorge, which has the same Natural Monument and Special Place of Scenic Beauty designations as Lake Towada. It’s a popular outdoor spot for those in the know, with incredibly vibrant leaves in autumn and picture-perfect verdure in spring and summer. The gorge itself stretches about 14 kilometers, and the dense forest, rushing waterfalls and moss-covered rocks along the Oirase River provide an incredible view for a refreshingly cool summertime stroll.

  For more breezy scenery, head back toward Hachinohe and pay a visit to the Tanesashi Coast. Part of the Sanriku Fukko National Park, the sweeping hills and rugged coastline include several walking trails and lookout points that provide an incredible view of the Pacific Ocean. Beyond that, the grassy areas are ideal for picnics, or if you’re feeling ambitious, a little early-morning outdoor yoga on Saturdays.

  It’s also home to the Kabushima Shrine, which was established some 720 years ago, by local fishermen who would pray for safety and bountiful catches.

  It overlooks the coast, which makes it beautiful in its own right, but what really sets it apart are a flock of seagulls; Kabushima is the nesting ground of literally thousands of seagulls (called umineko in Japanese), and during laying season (in mid-August) it is a cacophony of cuteness and chaos! Just be sure to bring an umbrella—while it’s considered good luck to get hit by an umineko “bomb,” it’s better to be safe than sorry (and smelly)!

  And really, this is just the tip of what Aomori has to offer all year-round! The only way to truly grasp how special the Tohoku area really is, is by exploring all it has to offer—so what are you waiting for?

• Yamagata, Akita & Fukushima: Get Outside & Dive In!

  When summer hits Tohoku, the region truly comes alive. The verdant countryside is splashed with colorful flowers, rivers and waterfalls gush with refreshing snowmelt, and local cities host incredible festivals! Summer is one of the best times to get outdoors, and dive deep into all the area has to offer.

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  Noam Katz

  Noam Katz is a freelance writer, proofreader and translator/interpreter based in the Tokyo area. Much of his writing thus far has introduced Japan's rural areas or featured small and mid-size Japanese companies that are taking their products and services abroad. In 2015, he published his first book on difficult-to-translate expressions in both the English and Japanese languages, and has worked on translations for two guide books about Japan. Originally from California, he’s now spent more than a decade living in Japan.

  Noam Katz

  Yamagata, Akita & Fukushima: Get Outside & Dive In!

  When summer hits Tohoku, the region truly comes alive. The verdant countryside is splashed with colorful flowers, rivers and waterfalls gush with refreshing snowmelt, and local cities host incredible festivals! Summer is one of the best times to get outdoors, and dive deep into all the area has to offer.

  Tohoku is a region renowned for heavy snow and a long winter, yet when summer finally rolls around, all of that land which has lain dormant for a very good portion of the year wakes up, and makes up for lost time! Flowers splash color over the landscape, trees branches become crowded with fresh new leaves as well as resident cicadas, and rivers and waterfalls gush forth icy-cold snowmelt. With so much nature to enjoy alongside a healthy mix of rich culture and deep tradition, summer in Tohoku is a wonderful time to be outdoors.

  Just like almost everywhere else in Japan, Tohoku summer does tend to be warm and humid, but that need not deter you from venturing out! The secret to appreciating the green without becoming gross is to head for the mountains. Spectacular hiking and trekking can be found all around the Tohoku area, and for starters, a visit to Yamadera (officially, Hojusan Risshaku-ji Temple) offers up a rich historical and cultural context to the breathtaking views of the luscious valley around.

  Straddling mountains in the capital city of Yamagata Prefecture (Yamagata City), Yamadera literally means “mountain temple,” though the site is really more of a temple complex, with numerous wooden structures perched atop steep cliffs. Alighting from the train station, you’ll wind your way across a river, through a cedar forest and up nearly 1,000 stone steps to ascend the mountain and count yourself among the centuries of visitors to this picture-perfect destination.

  The very existence of Yamadera easily spans more than a millennium, with historians giving 860 AD as the date of its founding. Most notably, the famous itinerant haiku poet Matsuo Basho even passed through here just some 300 years ago. Basho probably summarized summer in Yamadera best with his poem, "ah this silence / sinking into the rocks / voice of cicada."

  The JR Senzan Line provides easy access to Yamadera. Travel time from Yamagata City to Yamadera Station is about 18 minutes while the same train departing from Sendai takes about 60 minutes.

  Lest all that trekking give you some sore muscles, a soak in the warm waters of Yamagata Prefecture’s Ginzan Onsen would be a fitting way to recuperate. Excellent onsen, or hot springs, can be found all throughout Tohoku, but Ginzan Onsen stands out for its especially picturesque setting.

  Beautiful traditional Japanese inns known as ryokan line either side of the town’s river. Many of these wooden structures seem to have been frozen in time, thanks to their traditional Japanese architecture characterized by white plaster walls, lattice-covered windows and small brown balconies. During the day Ginzan Onsen is pretty enough, but a stroll in the cool evening (especially in a loose-fitting traditional yukata from one of the traditional Japanese inns!) is an excellent way to appreciate the hospitable glow that seems to emanate from the inns.

  All across Japan, summer is marked by many matsuri or festivals, and Tohoku is home to a number of famous festivals that attract visitors from both around the country and abroad to witness the locals’ incredible level of energy and unique customs.

  The Kanto Festival in Akita Prefecture is certainly one of those which come to mind when you hear the words “Tohoku summer festival,” given its reputation as one of the top three in the region. Kanto refers to a “pole lantern,” and if you know anything about Japan’s matsuri culture already, you may be getting a sense of what’s to come.

  A pole with a lantern hanging off of it? Well, that’s a start, but let’s add extensions to make that bamboo pole much, much taller, and attach, say, about eight different smaller bamboo poles branching off the main pole. Then, add numerous paper lanterns hanging off every branch, complete with real candles burning inside.

  Slowly passing through Akita City’s crowd-laden city streets, performers try and use their hands, foreheads, shoulders, hips, and whatever other variation is possible to balance these bamboo poles. Never mind that by now the pole may weigh 50 kilograms, reach up to 12 meters in height, and be adorned with well over 40 lanterns.

  Sound like a bit of a fire hazard? It is! Occasionally, the fragile paper lanterns do indeed catch fire and the whole rig has to be carefully lowered down and extinguished before a full-fledged conflagration breaks out. But watching all of the performers wield their brilliant ensembles through the city, chanting and cheering together with the crowds sitting or standing mere meters away, makes for a wondrous spectacle.

  Stick around and you can take photos with the performers and even try your hand (or head?) at balancing a lantern-laden pole yourself. All of this action occurs in the heart of the prefectural capital, Akita City, easily reachable by the Akita Shinkansen.

  If you’ve made it to Akita for the Kanto Festival, a one-hour drive directly up the coastline will take you to the Oga Peninsula, a scenic stretch of land jutting out into the Sea of Japan. Here it’s best not to rush, so give yourself time to appreciate the small, rural villages with friendly locals, as well as places of dramatic natural beauty such as the rocky coast of Cape Nyudo or Hachibodai, with its vantage point offering views of two volcanic lakes as well as Toga Bay.

  While on the Oga Peninsula, you’re bound to spot some large demon-like masked statues representing the Namahage, a part of local Oga folk tradition. New Year’s Eve is typically when Oga men dress up in ogre masks and straw capes, going door-to-door in search of naughty or lazy children, attempting to scare them into obeying their parents. However, you can experience the drama (and imagine the terror on young children’s faces!) any time of the year at the excellent Oga Namahage Museum.

  While the speedy Tohoku Shinkansen makes connections with major cities a breeze, zipping through the countryside at velocities of up to 320 kilometers per hour is not exactly the best way to appreciate the landscape. So instead, head down to Fukushima Prefecture’s Aizu-Wakamatsu where you’ll have several different options for a more slow-paced and scenic rail journey.

  Upon arriving to the Aizu-Wakamatsu train station at the appointed time, before you even enter the building you’ll probably spot a cloud of black smoke rising from... a genuine steam locomotive. While Japan’s high-speed electric trains attain ever higher speeds, traditional steam trains, often referred to as “SL,” can be found running stretches of track all around the country on weekends and certain holidays.

  Here, the nostalgic SL Banetsu Monogatari takes passengers on a rural route through the heart of the mountains towards Niigata Prefecture. Known affectionately as the “Noble Lady,” the train is so popular that people truly do take this more for the journey and less for the destination. It’s inexpensive and great fun, whether you’re bringing kids or just your own inner child, and you’ll pass forested mountains with nary a structure in sight.

  Although not an “SL,” another very memorable train to ride from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station is the Aizu Railway Aizu Line. This line operates year-round connecting Aizu-Wakamatsu with Nikko and other train lines bound for Tokyo, but during the summer the three-car Oza-Toro-Tembo Train features a special open trolley carriage. No windows means no glare if you’re brave enough to photograph the steep gorges and rushing rivers you’ll pass on the line. Even tunnels are part of the adventure! Not only do you feel the wind rushing in your face, you can also watch brief animated movies projected onto the tunnel walls.

  Finally, the Aizu region of Fukushima itself is also a great place to enjoy a myriad of outdoor activities. Standing guard off in the distance is Mount Bandai, a 1,816-meter mountain that is relatively easy to hike and affords spectacular panoramic views, particularly of the sprawling Lake Inawashiro at its base. This is Japan’s fourth-largest lake and its clear, refreshing waters are perfect for a swim, as well as numerous other activities like fishing, canoeing, and water skiing.

  By train, by bus, by car... however, you manage to visit Yamagata, Akita and Fukushima, be prepared to enjoy a whole host of outdoor adventures and fantastic festivals. Just don’t forget your sunscreen!

• Snap a Shot of Tohoku in Summer

  While any time is a good time to visit Tohoku, summer has a plethora of pretty, picture-perfect sights to see, on top of some fiery hot events! Beat the heat and head up north for some serious fun in the sun.

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  Wendell Harrison

  Wendell T. Harrison is an American-born writer, editor and frequent traveler. Calling Japan home for nine years, he is always happy to travel the country, from the snowy chill of Hokkaido to the warm sands of Okinawa. After creating a few travel videos for All About Japan, Wendell plans to continue documenting his journeys with a travel series called “Wen and Where.” When he is not writing his little heart out, he spends his time performing on stage, where he truly feels home.

  Wendell Harrison

  Snap a Shot of Tohoku in Summer

  While any time is a good time to visit Tohoku, summer has a plethora of pretty, picture-perfect sights to see, on top of some fiery hot events! Beat the heat and head up north for some serious fun in the sun.

  It can be said that any time is a good time to visit Tohoku. From the stunning sakura you can see in spring to the fleeting fall foliage we can find in autumn, northeast Japan is always camera ready. However, there are a plethora of pretty sights to behold during the summer, and without the stark heat of summertime in Tokyo or Kyoto.

  Like a Phoenix

  It is highly likely that the first time you heard about the Tohoku coastline was in the wake of the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake. At that time, a tremendous earthquake shook the land, causing massive coastal waves to pummel the shore. In the time since, however, the region has been working incredibly hard not just to restore the area to its former glory, but to become even more hospitable, scenic and magnificent than ever before. These remarkable restoration projects are proof of the area's resilience as well as stark evidence of why we shouldn't wait to see the marvels of Tohoku. So, grab your camera and take notes, because I am going to give you some incredible things to see and experience on a trip to Japan's northeastern coast.

  From Sea to Shore

  We'll start our list with the gorgeous coastline itself, which can be gleaned from a number of different points along the Michinoku Coastal Trail. Michinoku is the former name of the region and along the over 900 kilometers (560 miles) of hiking trail, you can see some of the same scenery as the Japanese ancestors once did, unspoiled by human development. The trail spans from Aomori, the northernmost prefecture of Honshu (Japan's largest island), to Fukushima Prefecture, offering many key spots to get your snaps. And one of the best places for getting some fresh air and flashy shots of nature is Kitayamazaki.

  Choose Your Own Adventure

  Kitayamazaki, which calls Iwate Prefecture home, arguably has some of the best views of the region. Once you arrive, you have two choices: up or down. Heading up will lead to observation decks that will astound you with wonderful panoramic views of jagged cliffs and a wide array of birds and greenery. If your adventure leads you down the hills, you'll make your way to a bat-filled cave. Make sure you have your flashlight (or enough battery in your smartphone to light the way) and do some light spelunking. Head for the light at the other end and you'll be treated to one of the most stunning coastal scenes, with azure-colored water caressing the smooth rocks underfoot. You'll feel like you've stepped into a whole new world.

  Make a Splash

  If you prefer your water vertical, there is no shortage of awe-invoking waterfalls in the region. If you had to pick only one, however, you'll surely be pointed toward the Tamasudare Falls. At 63 meters (206 feet) tall, Tamasudare is the tallest waterfall in Yamagata Prefecture. During the day, you can capture some great pictures standing near the peaceful giant, gazing up at its glimmering heights. However, if you're able to visit during Obon, a period running from August 11 to 18 to honor ancestral spirits, the waterfall is illuminated at night, giving your followers yet another reason to be jealous of your journey.

  Speaking of water, it’d be a shame if I didn’t mention the Okama Crater, located near the summit of one of the peaks of the Zao mountain range, on the border between Yamagata Prefecture and Miyagi Prefecture. It derives its name from the word for a traditional Japanese cooking pot, and in the center is a picture-perfect caldera lake that spans of range of unbelievable colors (thanks to sediments from volcanic activity), and it is positively breathtaking in summer. While you can’t dive in, the cool mountain air is sure to refresh!

  Rocking Out

  Finally, if you'd rather sunbathe while staring at the water on the horizon, allow me to direct you to one of my favorite beaches in the entire country. The word Jodogahama means "heaven's beach," and luckily you don't have to be a saint to see the blessings of this beautiful beach in Iwate. Just beyond the beach area, large jagged rocks stand above the waterline, offering unusual statues of light-colored rocks. The rock formations are a great backdrop to your summer selfies, no matter where you take the pic: from the seaside or even on a boat.

  As for taking a boat, you have two options. You can board a large passenger boat, which will allow you to buy and share snacks with scavenging seagulls. As you cruise through the serene waters, these faithful fowls will follow you until you get back to the dock, or until all the passengers run out of food. If you want a more private journey, smaller boats complete with a knowledgeable driver, are able to give you an up-close look of the rocks, as well as a quick peek at one of the area’s blue caves.

  Light Up the Night Sky

  Once you’ve gotten your fill of the majestic blues and greens of nature’s palette, it’s time for a few man-made joys. And one of the best ways to spend a summer evening in Tohoku is checking out one of the many festivals. It would be a difficult task to name all of the wonderful events happening each year, but I am happy to share a few such festivals that I know for sure are a big hit.

  The first to be featured is described as one of Japan’s greatest fireworks festivals: the Omagari Fireworks Festival. Each year, this city in Akita Prefecture, receives over 800,000 attendees, all in anticipation for an impressive display of over 20,000 fireworks. You’ll be in awe watching the bursts of dazzling light, all highlighted by the Omoro River below, but don’t forget to turn your camera on. Your social media feed will be buzzing as your friends all over the world stare at their screens, wishing they could be right there in Tohoku with you.

  Dance Away Your Blues

  For those who prefer a fun and active video, as opposed to getting the perfect pose down, may I suggest breaking it down at a couple other huge summer events? The six prefectures of Tohoku come together in summer to celebrate life and the spirit of the north, while also showcasing the unique richness and diversity of each local culture. The biggest events of summer festival season in Tohoku basically all happen during the first week or so of August, meaning you can time your vacation in order to witness a lot of the major events in the area if you’re feeling ambitious. If you have the endurance, I definitely recommend it.

  For example, if you start in Morioka, in Iwate Prefecture, you’ll have a chance to be a part of the Morioka Sansa Odori Festival, the world’s largest drum parade (according to Guinness World Records). Over 10,000 drummers (!!!) hit the streets to pound their beats, which they do—according to local legend—to celebrate the defeat of a wicked demon that was defeated long ago. Get your dance on in the middle of the street, learning the steps from the locals who are happy to teach you.

  For a change of pace, head to Miyagi’s capital city, Sendai, and check out their take on the Tanabata festival. The rest of Japan typically celebrates Tanabata in July, but Sendai’s August event is actually the largest in the country, and welcomes millions of visitors every year. There are tons of traditional festival trappings, but the highlight are the hundreds of gorgeous streamers—made using traditional Japanese paper—that are hung on bamboo poles throughout the city’s covered malls.

  As the saying goes, there truly is something for everyone in Tohoku. And if you’re looking to spice up your social media feed, the sights and sounds of Japan’s northeast region will surely bring in the likes and followers. Tag along with your friends (and be sure to tag them in your posts) because summer in Tohoku is truly an unforgettable experience!